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Off the ferry at 07:30 (happily no reversing required), and on to a dreek Lerwick early on a bank holiday Monday. Unsurprisingly, it was mostly shut so we headed off south towards our first campsite but way too early to…

The guide book said that Castle o'Burrian was the place to spot puffins so we thought we ought to go and have a look. The Westray heritage centre mockup had shown that puffins usually roost towards the top of stacks abov…